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What Is Glycolic Acid All About?
By Peter T. Pacik, M.D., F.A.C.S.

Part Two -- AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids)

Q: What are AHAs and where are they found?
A: AHAs are commonly found in fruits and other foods. AHAs or fruit acids, as they are commonly called, belong to a larger group of acids called carboxylic acids. Some of the more common fruit acids used are Glycolic, Lactic, and Citrus. Some of their natural sources are sugar cane, sour milk, apples, grapes, and citrus fruits. In combination with other topical preparations for acne and hyper-pigmentation, AHAs appear to complement common therapeutic ingredients, thereby providing optimal results.

Q: How do AHAs work?
A: AHAs work in three primary ways: First, AHAs promote exfoliation of the hyperkeratotic dead cell layer that is associated with dry skin. They enhance exfoliation -- the removal of dead skin cells from the stratum corneum. This activity permits the emergence of a more compact, smoother stratum corneum and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles that are caused by sun damage and aging. Second, AHAs are powerful moisturizers and are highly effective in increasing the skin's moisture content. AHAs bind with water molecules to prevent them from rapidly evaporating. This process of improving the epidermis' ability to bind with water molecules helps to manage dry skin. However, AHAs are unlike typical moisturizers because they possess hygroscopic (water attraction) properties rather than simply creating an occlusive barrier. This characteristic, coupled with their ability to promote exfoliation, makes AHAs ideal for use with severely dry skin. Third, AHAs exhibit anti-inflammatory effects presumably by functioning as antioxidants, or free radical scavengers. Recent research has shown that following the exposure of skin to UV radiation, AHAs decrease the duration of inflammation (erythema).

Q: What are the benefits of glycolic acid?
A: Glycolic acid is believed to be the most effective AHA because it has the smallest molecular size, theoretically enabling it to better penetrate the stratum corneum. Glycolic acid occurs naturally in sugar cane and sugar beets but is synthetically manufactured for cosmetic use. Synthetic glycolic acid offers greater purity and quality, and more dependable consistency than natural sources of glycolic acid. In addition, because it has the lowest molecular weight, glycolic acid formulations will have more molecules by weight than formulations with other AHAs. For example, at equal weights there would be 18% more molecules of glycolic acid than lactic acid, 76% more molecules than malic acid, and 153% more molecules than citric acid.

Q: What is the basis of the MD Forte Skin Care Program?
A: The MD Forte Skin Care Program is based on 3 easy steps: "Cleanse", "Renew", and "Protect". The "Cleanse" and "Renew" steps incorporate AHAs and anti-oxidants to transform a dull lifeless complexion into a more youthful glow, with a smoother complexion, and flawless skin tones. The "Protect" step incorporates the use of a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen to prevent future damage from the suns harmful rays.

Q: What is the MD Forte 3-Step Advanced Skin Care Program?
A:
Step 1. Facial Cleanser I or II (start with I - 12% glycolic compound, advance to II - 15% glycolic compound). Gentle, creamy cleanser removes daily residue, makeup and oil without harshness or dehydration.
Step 2. Facial Cream I, II, III or Skin Rejuvenating Lotion I or II. Facial Cream I (15% glycolic compound), II (20% glycolic compound) and III (30% glycolic compound) exfoliates, softens and refines dry skin. Skin Rejuvenation Lotion I (5% glycolic compound) improves dull, lifeless complexion or for sensitive skin. Skin Rejuvenation Lotion II (20% glycolic compound) is a higher strength for advanced correction.
Step 3. Aftercare Environmental Protection Cream SPF 30 (glycolic free) for maximum protection against UVA/UVB exposure.
   
See below for links to individual products. Also see previous e-mails in the newsletter section of our website SkinCare-MD.com.

Over-the-counter and esthetician products contain a smaller percentage of glycolic acid. These products are often neutralized to the degree that they are poorly effective. Forte products have stronger concentrations of glycolic acid; and therefore, are both more effective and work quicker. Because of these stronger concentrations, they are available only through a doctor's office.

May your skin be healthy and bright and reflect the radiance of your soul.

If there are any topics that you would like covered in these educational e-mails, please let us know. We encourage you to share your experiences both positive and negative with us. Your comments are important to us. For more information, please visit our website SkinCare-MD.com and our plastic surgery website PlasticSurgeryPA.com.

For more information, please visit our Web site skincare-md.com and our plastic surgery website plasticsurgerypa.com. All of our previous educational e-mails , as well as The MD Forte 4-Step Daily Regimen, Obagi Nu-Derm System Daily Regimen, and Obagi-C Rx Recommended Daily System Application are found on our website www.skincare-md.com. If you have any additional questions or would like to speak to or would like to speak to Lisa Roberge, our esthetician, please feel free to call us during office hours Monday thru Thursday 9-4, Friday 9-3 EST at 1-877-415-0600 or (603) 669-0290. If there are any topics that you would like covered in these educational e-mails, suggestions or concerns you may have, please let us know. We encourage you to share your experiences both positive and negative with us. Your comments are important to us.

Peter T. Pacik, M.D., FACS
Medical Director

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